Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and travelers equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, Unesco honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious group of global cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it joins a global network of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "stands as proof of its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and vibrant food ecosystem," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 cities around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this historic city comes as no surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, bustling, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the global gaze for what has always characterized its essence: an profound love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a continued conversation from morning until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, refined, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of food experimentation, blending Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates seasonal produce but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – little-known gems that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a unpretentious joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and demanding. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but note that their younger generation do not want to learn the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will motivate more people globally to discover these stories and travel to the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.